ENERGY & SOLAR · CALCULATOR
What Any Appliance Actually Costs You to Run
Enter an appliance's average draw and how long you use it. See yearly energy and cost, or skip straight to the library of typical figures for common household devices.
Annual energy use
218kWh/year
100 W for 6 h/day, 7 days/week
- Daily average draw
- 600 Wh
- Monthly cost (your currency)
- 4.55
- Annual cost (your currency)
- 54.6
Results recalculate as you type. Costs are estimates based on the tariff you enter, not your actual bill.
An appliance label states a peak. It almost never tells you what that device costs to live with. A kettle stamped three thousand watts only boils for a couple of minutes. A fridge rated a hundred and fifty watts runs a fraction of every hour, all day, all year. Those two facts pull in opposite directions, and the label alone cannot show you which one matters more. That gap is where most people's energy guesswork quietly goes wrong.
This calculator closes the gap. Enter the average draw, not the peak, and how long you actually use the device. It converts that into yearly kilowatt-hours, then multiplies by the electricity price you type in. The library below does the same arithmetic for a range of common household appliances. You can compare your own devices against a published typical figure before measuring anything yourself.
The formula
Annual kWh = [(watts x hours per day x days per week) + (standby watts x 24 x 7)] x 52 / 1,000 / 7
- watts x hours
- energy used while the appliance is actually doing its job, converted to watt-hours.
- days per week
- how often that active use happens. A fridge scores seven. A workout machine might score three.
- standby watts
- the small draw that continues all week whenever the plug stays in, whether or not the device is used.
- tariff per kWh
- your electricity price, entered in your own currency, multiplied against total kilowatt-hours.
How the energy calculation works
Energy is power stretched across time. A watt is a rate. A watt-hour is what that rate costs you over an hour of use. Multiply average watts by hours used, and you have the day's energy. Multiply by the days in a week, then by fifty two, and you have a year. Divide by a thousand to move from watt-hours to kilowatt-hours, the unit your bill is actually priced in. Standby draw is handled the same way, except it counts every hour of the week, whether or not you touched the device.
The tariff step is just multiplication. Kilowatt-hours times the price you enter gives the cost, with no currency symbol attached, because that price already carries your own unit. A device costing thirty units a year is thirty units a year wherever you live. What changes between households is not the maths. It is the tariff, and the average draw you choose to believe about your own appliances.
- Average watts, not peak watts, decide the honest annual figure.
- Standby never stops counting, even on days you never switch the device on.
- Kilowatt-hours are just watt-hours divided by a thousand.
Worked example: a fridge versus a kettle
A modern fridge-freezer averages around eighty watts across the day, once its compressor duty cycle is folded in. Run that figure twenty four hours, seven days a week, and it draws about seven hundred watt-hours daily. Over a year that is roughly two hundred and nineteen kilowatt-hours. At a tariff of a quarter per unit, the fridge costs about fifty five units a year to run. It does that quietly and continuously, whether or not anyone opens the door.
Now take an electric kettle. Its label might say three thousand watts, which looks alarming next to the fridge. It boils for around four minutes a day. That is roughly two hundred watt-hours a day, or about seventy three kilowatt-hours a year. The kettle costs far less annually than the fridge, despite a label rating almost forty times higher. This is the difference between power and energy. A high rate over a very short time usually costs less than a modest rate that never stops.
Reading the appliance library
The reference table on this page collects typical average draws and rough annual energy figures for a spread of common appliances. Those numbers are planning ranges, not measurements of any specific model. Two fridges of the same nominal size can differ by half again in real yearly energy. Age, seal condition and the temperature of the room they stand in all move the figure. Treat the table as a starting point for a question, not the answer itself.
Use the table in one of two ways. Either find your appliance type, plug its typical figure into the calculator above, and adjust the hours to match your own habit. Or measure first with a plug-in energy meter. Use the table only to sense check whether your measurement looks ordinary, or unusually high for that class of device.
There is a second reason to read the table this way. It shows which habits, not which appliances, drive the biggest annual totals. A games console used three hours a day looks modest against a fridge that never stops. Change the hours, though, and the ranking can flip. The same device that seemed cheap to run becomes worth measuring once it runs all evening, every evening.
Where standby power actually goes
A single device idling at five watts feels trivial. Now add them up across one entertainment unit. A set-top box, a games console and a soundbar all left plugged in can draw a noticeable share of a year's electricity. None of that energy is doing anything anyone chose. Standby is easy to overlook because it has no sound, no light, and no clear moment of use. It arrives on the bill as a slow, constant line item you never consciously switched on.
The honest fix is usually a switchable power strip for one cluster of devices, rather than chasing individual plugs. That makes the standby decision one action at the end of an evening, not twenty small ones. A metered strip, or a plug-in energy monitor, will show you exactly how much of a device's yearly energy is standby rather than use. Sometimes the answer genuinely surprises the owner.
Accuracy, assumptions and limitations
This tool assumes the average draw you enter stays steady across the year. It also assumes your hours and days reflect a normal week, not a seasonal peak. Real usage drifts. A fridge works harder in a hot room in summer. A heater barely appears in the annual total for the months it sits in a cupboard. The calculator gives a single annual number built from the pattern you describe, which is a reasonable planning figure but not a meter reading.
For a dependable number, measure. A plug-in energy monitor costs little and logs real consumption over days or weeks. It captures duty cycling, standby behaviour, and the quirks of one specific appliance in one specific room. Use this tool to work out which devices are worth measuring first. That single question, answered honestly, usually finds the biggest savings faster than any general advice about turning lights off.
Reference values
Typical average draws and rough annual energy, at ordinary household use patterns
| Appliance | Average draw | Typical use | Approx. annual kWh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fridge-freezer (modern) | 60-120 W | 24 h/day, every day | 160-260 kWh |
| Chest freezer | 100-150 W | 24 h/day, every day | 220-330 kWh |
| Wi-Fi router and modem | 10-30 W | 24 h/day, every day | 25-85 kWh |
| Laptop | 30-90 W | 4 h/day, 5 d/week | 30-95 kWh |
| Desktop PC and monitor | 90-250 W | 4 h/day, 5 d/week | 95-260 kWh |
| LED lighting (whole home) | 60-150 W | 5 h/day, every day | 110-275 kWh |
| Television (mid-size LED) | 50-120 W | 3 h/day, every day | 55-130 kWh |
| Electric kettle | 1,800-3,000 W | 4 min/day, every day | 65-110 kWh |
| Tumble dryer | 1,800-2,500 W | 3 loads/week | 100-160 kWh |
| Dishwasher | 1,000-1,800 W (heat phase) | 4 loads/week | 120-200 kWh |
| Space heater | 1,000-2,000 W | 3 h/day, winter only | 120-470 kWh (seasonal) |
| Ceiling fan | 30-75 W | 8 h/day, summer only | 35-90 kWh (seasonal) |
Key terms
- Average draw
- Power use spread across the time a device runs, including idle stretches. This, not the label peak, drives the annual figure.
- Standby power
- The small draw a device keeps pulling whenever it stays plugged in, even switched off or asleep.
- Kilowatt-hour (kWh)
- One thousand watt-hours. The unit electricity is billed in, and the one this calculator's final cost figure is based on.
- Duty cycle
- The share of each hour a cycling appliance actually runs at full power, which turns a nameplate rating into a lower real average.
Tips and common mistakes
Field-tested tips
- Measure before you trust any table figure. A plug-in energy meter costs little and settles the question for one specific appliance in one specific room.
- Cluster standby-prone devices onto one switchable power strip, so the idle decision is one action, not twenty.
- Chase the always-on loads first. Fridge, router and freezer run every hour of the year, so small percentage changes there compound.
- Re-run a seasonal appliance for the months it actually runs, not a whole year. A heater's winter figure is the honest one.
Common mistakes
- Using the nameplate watts printed on the label as if it were the average draw.
- Forgetting standby load entirely, then wondering why a rarely-used device still shows up on the bill.
- Assuming a high-wattage device must be expensive to run, without checking how few hours it actually runs.
- Treating the library figures as a measurement of your own appliance rather than a starting range.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the calculator not show a currency symbol?
Because the site is written for a global audience, and a dollar or pound sign would make the same tool wrong for everyone else. The maths is unit agnostic. Enter your own electricity price in your own currency, in whatever unit your bill quotes per kilowatt-hour. The result carries that same unit through, with nothing assumed about where you live.
My kettle says 3,000 W but the library shows it below a fridge. How?
Because cost follows energy, not power. Energy is power multiplied by the time it actually runs. A kettle pulls a very high rate for a few minutes a day. A fridge pulls a much lower rate around the clock. Over a year, the always-on appliance usually wins the total, despite a nameplate figure twenty to forty times smaller than the kettle's.
Are the library figures tested measurements?
No. They are typical published ranges for each appliance class, useful for sense checking and for spotting which devices are worth measuring properly. Real consumption varies with model, age, room temperature and usage habit. For a dependable number on your own equipment, plug in an energy meter for a few days instead of relying on the table.
How do I find the biggest saving in my own home?
Sort the annual figures this tool produces from largest to smallest, then check whether each one reflects a habit you actually want to keep. A fridge will always sit near the top of that list because it never stops. That does not make it wasteful. A dryer run half empty, or a space heater warming an unused room, is usually a better place to look for change.
About this calculator
- Written by
- Spare Theory Editorial Team · Research & Testing Desk
- Last reviewed
- 2026-10-15
How we calculateEnergy figures use standard power times time arithmetic. Average draw and annual energy ranges follow published appliance guidance and plug-in meter spot checks. Typical ranges are not measured claims about any specific model.
Reference basisPublished appliance energy use guidance and efficiency labels · Plug-in energy meter measurement methodology