ENERGY & SOLAR · CALCULATOR
Turn Any Battery Rating Into a Number You Can Use
Enter voltage and amp-hours. The converter shows watt-hours and milliamp-hours, the energy you can actually draw, and how long that runs a chosen load.
Stored energy
1,200Wh
the same capacity is 100,000 mAh at 12 V
- Rated capacity
- 100 Ah1,200 Wh at 12 V
- Usable after DOD and losses
- 816 Wh
- Runtime at this load
- 10.2 haveraging 80 W
Results recalculate as you type. Amp-hours alone never tell the story; voltage turns them into real energy.
Battery shopping is confusing because the industry quotes capacity in three different units, and only one of them is honest. Amp-hours are a current-and-time figure that hides the voltage behind them. Milliamp-hours are the same idea scaled down for phones. Watt-hours are the only unit you can compare fairly, because they capture the total energy no matter the pack design.
This converter exists to move between the three without a lecture. Enter the voltage printed on your pack and the amp-hour rating. It returns the watt-hours, the milliamp-hours, and the energy you can actually draw after depth-of-discharge and losses.
It ends where the useful question lives. Once you know the real watt-hours, the tool times them against a load you choose, so a specification becomes an answer: how many hours of this does that battery give you.
The formula
Energy (Wh) = voltage x amp-hours; Runtime (h) = Wh x usable % x (1 - loss %) / load W
- voltage
- the electrical pressure of the pack. It is what makes an amp-hour at 48 V four times the energy of one at 12 V.
- amp-hours (Ah)
- current multiplied by time. A useful measure only once you know the voltage behind it.
- watt-hours (Wh)
- the true energy currency. Every runtime question is answered in watt-hours, whatever the label quotes.
- usable %
- the share of rated capacity a chemistry lets you drain before it hurts the cells or the reserve.
Why watt-hours beat amp-hours for comparison
Amp-hours tempt people into bad comparisons. A 100 Ah phone battery sounds the same as a 100 Ah leisure battery, and one is a small brick while the other can run a fridge for a day. The gap is voltage, which amp-hours leave out entirely.
Watt-hours fold voltage back in. Multiply the amp-hours by the pack's nominal voltage and the true energy appears. The 100 Ah at 12 V is 1,200 Wh; the 100 Ah cell at 3.7 V is 370 Wh. Suddenly the sizes make sense and the shopping choice clarifies.
Manufacturers know this, which is why the more honest ones now print watt-hours on power banks. When a brand quotes only milliamp-hours at an unstated voltage, you are being invited to compare numbers that cannot be compared. Convert first, then judge.
There is a second reason amp-hours mislead. The same amp-hour rating means a very different current depending on voltage, and current is what heats cables and blows fuses. A 48 V 100 Ah pack moves the same energy at one quarter of the amps of a 12 V pack, with much thinner wiring. Watt-hours explain the energy; voltage explains the wiring.
- Amp-hours are current times time, and say nothing about voltage.
- Watt-hours are the only unit that fairly compares different pack designs.
- A power bank's 20,000 mAh is 100 Wh at 5 V, not at its 3.7 V cells.
The three conversion steps, in order
Step one is the honest energy figure. Take voltage times amp-hours to get watt-hours. For a 12 V, 100 Ah pack that is 1,200 Wh. Multiply amp-hours by 1,000 to see the same capacity quoted in milliamp-hours for phone comparisons.
Step two removes the part you cannot use. No battery gives its full rated energy. You apply a usable depth of discharge, then an efficiency factor for inversion and wiring. The 1,200 Wh becomes a smaller number that reflects what reaches your appliance.
Step three answers the runtime question. Divide the usable watt-hours by your load. At 80 W, a 12 V 100 Ah lithium pack with 90% usable and 15% loss runs roughly eleven and a half hours. That number, not the label, is what a night of darkness depends on.
Keep one habit while converting: carry the same unit all the way through. Do not multiply amp-hours by a milliamp-hour figure, and never mix a 5 V power-bank claim with a 3.7 V cell rating in a single calculation. The converter enforces consistency by asking for one voltage and treating everything downstream in watt-hours.
When a result feels impossible, recheck the voltage entry. A phone battery typed in at 5 V instead of its real 3.7 V cell voltage inflates the energy figure by a third, and a 48 V rack battery typed at 12 V shrinks it fourfold. Voltage errors are the most common cause of a conversion that looks wrong.
Depth of discharge: the number chemistry decides
Usable capacity is a chemistry decision, not a marketing one. A lead-acid battery pushed below half regularly sulfates and dies young. Lithium cells tolerate far deeper drains, and modern LiFePO4 packs often quote 80 to 90% usable without a longevity penalty.
The tradeoff is price and weight per usable watt-hour. A 100 Ah lead-acid battery drained to 50% gives half the service of a 100 Ah lithium drained to 90%. It also weighs more doing it. The converter makes that visible by multiplying usable percentage into the answer.
One caution on the usable figure. Manufacturers often publish the depth that hits a specific cycle life, and real packs fade over years. Setting your usable slightly lower than the datasheet is a cheap way to keep a margin that survives an ageing battery.
Temperature moves the usable number too. A cold garage or a winter camping night can shave several percentage points off effective capacity, on top of the chemistry limit. Since one fixed percentage cannot describe summer and January alike, owners who plan year-round usually set the figure low.
Reading the result for real decisions
The runtime line is the working output. It tells you what a pack does, not merely what it is. Pair it with your actual load, and the tool answers how long a router stays alive. It also shows how many nights a small station carries a CPAP before you must refill from a wall or the sun.
The full-energy lines still earn their place. Watt-hours per volt matters when you build or combine packs. Series strings raise voltage and keep amp-hours; parallel strings raise amp-hours and keep voltage. The converter handles both by working from the voltage you enter.
For DC loads, set losses near zero. A 12 V fridge on a 12 V battery skips the inverter fight that mains loads pay. This is the single easiest gain in off-grid power, and it is why many owners wire critical 12 V devices straight to the battery.
The conversion also runs backwards. If a night of medical-device duty needs 600 Wh, divide by your pack voltage to find the minimum amp-hour purchase. That flips the converter from a measuring tool into a shopping tool, sizing a battery to a job instead of judging one you already own.
Accuracy, assumptions and limitations
Nominal voltage is an average, not a constant. A 12 V lead-acid pack swings from 13 down to 11 as it discharges, and amp-hour ratings are usually given at a slow discharge rate. At high current, real capacity shrinks, an effect the converter does not model.
Rated capacity assumes the manufacturer's test conditions. Cold temperature, age and a high discharge rate each reduce the honest figure. The usable percentage you enter is therefore a planning choice, not a physical law. Erring low is cheap insurance on a battery you depend on.
Treat the runtime as a planning band with a floor, not a promise. Real nights differ from real datasheets. What the conversion does reliably is put every battery on the same watt-hour footing, which is where fair comparison begins.
One question stays outside this tool entirely. Watt-hour totals say nothing about maximum output. A pack can hold ample energy yet fail to deliver the surge a compressor wants at start-up. For that gate check, use the can-it-run checker here. This converter answers how long, never whether it can.
Reference values
Common pack voltages and their nominal cell counts
| System | Nominal voltage | Lithium cells in series | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single cell | 3.7 V | 1 | Phone power banks, torches |
| 12 V lead-style | 12 V | 3 to 4 (LiFePO4) | Caravans, small solar, cars |
| 24 V system | 24 V | 7 to 8 | Larger off-grid, pumps |
| 48 V system | 48 V | 15 to 16 | Home storage, server racks |
Key terms
- Watt-hour
- The true energy a battery stores: nominal voltage multiplied by amp-hours. The only fair unit for comparing packs.
- Depth of discharge
- How far a battery is drained per cycle. Chemistry sets a safe limit that decides usable capacity.
- Nominal voltage
- The average working voltage of a pack, used for rating even though real voltage swings above and below it.
- Series versus parallel
- Series cells add voltage; parallel cells add amp-hours. Both change the watt-hour total.
Tips and common mistakes
Field-tested tips
- Compare everything in watt-hours before price. Two 100 Ah batteries at 12 V and 48 V differ fourfold in energy, and the label hides it.
- Wire 12 V loads straight to the battery. Skipping the inverter reclaims the loss figure as runtime.
- Set usable a little below the datasheet. The margin covers battery ageing you have not seen yet.
- For a power bank, note its cell voltage. Milliamphour claims at 5 V and at 3.7 V are not the same battery.
Common mistakes
- Choosing between batteries on amp-hours alone, ignoring the voltage that turns them into real energy.
- Quoting the full rated capacity as if it were all usable, then being surprised when runtime falls short.
- Adding inverter losses to a DC load that never uses the inverter, shrinking a runtime that was fine.
- Trusting a high milliamp-hour figure on a power bank without checking the voltage it was measured at.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my 12 V 100 Ah battery not run 100 hours at 1 A?
Because amp-hour ratings assume a slow discharge and a warm battery, both optimistic in practice. At a faster rate, internal losses shrink the usable figure. Real voltage also starts above and ends below 12 V. The rated number is a best-case lab result, which is why planning low, as this tool lets you, protects a runtime you can rely on.
Can I compare a power bank and a car battery this way?
Yes, and you should, but always in watt-hours. A 20,000 mAh power bank near 3.7 V holds about 74 Wh. A 12 V 50 Ah battery holds about 600 Wh. Once the units match, the size difference is obvious rather than misleading, and the fair price comparison becomes possible at a glance.
Should lead acid and lithium use the same usable figure?
No, and this is where the usable-depth input earns its place. Lead acid wants around 50% regular discharge to protect its life. Lithium, especially LiFePO4, tolerates 80 to 90%. The same rated battery can therefore give very different usable energy, which is exactly why a converter must apply the factor before it answers a runtime question.
Does building packs in series or parallel change the total?
It changes which number grows. Series adds voltage, so watt-hours rise while amp-hours stay. Parallel adds amp-hours at the same voltage, so watt-hours rise too. Either route increases total energy, and the converter reads whichever nominal voltage you enter, so you can check a home-built pack against a ready-made one on the same footing.
About this calculator
- Written by
- Spare Theory Editorial Team · Research & Testing Desk
- Last reviewed
- 2026-10-16
How we calculateConversions apply the standard Wh = V x Ah relation and its milliamp-hour scaling. Usable energy multiplies depth of discharge and an efficiency factor, following manufacturer datasheets and independent battery-test methodology. Cell-count bands follow published series configurations for common lithium chemistries.
Reference basisBattery manufacturer datasheets for usable depth of discharge and cycle life · Independent lead-acid versus lithium discharge test comparisons